Modal is a semi-synthetic fabric made from regenerated cellulose, usually from beech wood pulp. It belongs to the rayon family alongside viscose and lyocell, but it’s processed to be stronger when wet, shrink less and feel smoother. That mix of softness, drape and stability is why modal is one of the most common fabrics in underwear, loungewear and premium basics.
So, what is modal fabric in practice, and is it right for your product? Below: how it’s made, how it compares with cotton, viscose and lyocell, where micromodal and TENCEL™ Modal fit, and what to write in your tech pack.
What is modal fabric made of?
Modal starts as wood. Pulp is dissolved into a thick solution, pushed through fine holes (spinnerets) and set into continuous filaments, which are then cut into short staple fibres and spun into yarn like cotton.
Because the cellulose comes from plants but is chemically rebuilt into a fibre, modal is called a regenerated cellulose or “man-made cellulosic” fibre. It isn’t a natural fibre like cotton, and it isn’t a petroleum-based synthetic like polyester.
Beech is the classic source wood for modal, though the fibre can be made from other pulps. Most modal is knitted into jersey, so if you’re new to knits, our guide to what jersey fabric is covers the basics.
Modal vs viscose vs lyocell: how they’re made
All three are rayon-family fibres made from wood pulp. The differences come from the process, and those differences show up in how the fabric behaves.
- Viscose: the original process. Pulp is treated with sodium hydroxide and carbon disulphide, dissolved and spun into an acid bath. Soft and drapey, but noticeably weaker when wet and prone to shrinking.
- Modal: uses viscose-type chemistry, but with modified spinning conditions that give a more ordered fibre structure. It’s often described as a “high wet modulus” fibre: it holds its strength and shape better when wet, so fabrics shrink and distort less.
- Lyocell: a different route. Pulp is dissolved directly in an amine-oxide solvent (NMMO) that is recovered and reused, with no carbon disulphide. Lyocell is strong wet and dry, but can fibrillate, giving a peach-skin surface if not finished correctly.
On environmental impact, be careful with blanket claims. The footprint of any of these fibres depends heavily on where the wood comes from and how well the producer captures and recovers its chemicals. Lyocell’s solvent-recovery process is generally seen as the cleanest of the three, while modal and viscose quality varies a lot between producers. Ask your mill for the fibre producer and any documentation they hold.
TENCEL™ Modal and micromodal
TENCEL™ is a brand of the Austrian fibre producer Lenzing. TENCEL™ Modal is Lenzing’s branded modal, and TENCEL™ Lyocell is its branded lyocell. “Modal” on its own is the generic fibre name, so a fabric can be modal without being TENCEL™.
Micromodal is modal spun into much finer fibres. Finer fibres make a lighter, silkier, more fluid fabric, which is why micromodal is popular for premium briefs, bralettes and sleepwear. Lenzing now markets its fine version as TENCEL™ Modal with Micro technology.
If you want to use a brand name like TENCEL™ on your labels or product pages, you’ll normally need the fabric supplied through the brand owner’s approved channels and its permission to use the trademark. Confirm this with your fabric supplier before you print anything.
Modal fabric properties: is modal breathable?
Yes, modal is breathable. As a cellulose fibre it absorbs moisture readily and lets it move away from the skin, so it feels cool and doesn’t trap heat the way polyester can. Here’s what else to expect:
- Softness: smooth, silky hand that stays soft after washing. Micromodal is softer still.
- Drape: fluid and body-skimming, which suits close-fitting underwear and slouchy loungewear.
- Colour: takes dye well, giving clear, rich shades that tend to hold up through washing.
- Shrinkage: lower than viscose, though it can still shrink if washed hot or tumble-dried.
- Pilling: generally better than viscose, but fine modal jersey can still pill in high-friction areas.
Modal vs cotton vs viscose vs lyocell
Modal vs cotton is the comparison most brands care about, but viscose and lyocell are the real alternatives when you want a soft, drapey knit. Characteristics are typical and vary with yarn and fabric quality.
| Fibre | Type | Hand feel | Moisture | Wet strength | Shrinkage risk | Common uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Modal | Regenerated cellulose (rayon family) | Very soft, silky, fluid drape | Absorbs well, feels cool | Good for a cellulosic | Low to moderate | Underwear, bras, loungewear, sleepwear, premium tees |
| Cotton | Natural plant fibre | Soft but crisper, more structure | Absorbs well, slower to dry | Good, slightly stronger wet | Moderate unless pre-shrunk | Tees, briefs, sweatshirts, almost everything |
| Viscose | Regenerated cellulose (rayon family) | Soft, very drapey | Absorbs well | Low, weakens noticeably when wet | Moderate to high | Dresses, blouses, fashion tops |
| Lyocell | Regenerated cellulose (solvent-spun) | Smooth, cool, slightly denser | Absorbs well | High | Low to moderate | Shirts, denim blends, bedding, activewear blends |
Modal vs cotton for underwear
Modal feels softer and smoother, drapes closer to the body and usually keeps its colour and hand longer. Cotton has more structure, is easier to source in organic versions and is usually more economical.
Many brands use both: a modal brief for the premium line and a cotton brief as the everyday basic. Cotton is also the traditional choice for gussets, which is worth noting in your spec.
Pros and cons of modal fabric
Pros
- Very soft and smooth against the skin
- Breathable and absorbent, so it feels cool
- Drapes beautifully in close-fitting styles
- More stable than viscose: less shrinkage and distortion after washing
- Rich, clear colours
Cons
- Usually costs more than cotton or viscose, and branded fibres more again
- Little structure on its own, so it needs elastane to hold shape in underwear
- Fine jersey is slippery and curls, which makes cutting and sewing slower
- Can pill with friction and doesn’t like high heat
- Environmental profile depends on the producer, so generic modal is hard to verify
Modal blends: elastane, cotton and more
100% modal exists, but most modal garments are blends:
- Modal/elastane: the underwear standard, typically around 92/8 or 95/5. The elastane gives stretch and recovery so briefs, boxers and bralettes keep their shape.
- Modal/cotton: common for tees and loungewear, often around 50/50. You get modal’s softness and drape with more of cotton’s body.
- Cotton/modal/elastane: a middle ground for fitted tees, bodysuits and everyday underwear.
Underwear is where modal earns its place. If you’re developing briefs, boxers or bralettes, our lingerie and underwear manufacturing service produces from 50 pieces per style, so you can test a modal range before committing to volume.
How to care for modal
- Machine wash cool, around 30°C, on a gentle cycle.
- Wash inside out with similar colours to reduce pilling and fading.
- Line dry or tumble dry low. High heat is the main cause of shrinkage.
- Iron on low if needed, and skip bleach.
Base your care label on the actual fabric and trims, and on wash tests of your sample, not a generic template.
What to specify for modal in your tech pack
“Modal jersey” on its own leaves too much open. Put these in the fabric section of your tech pack:
- Composition and construction: for example, 92% modal / 8% elastane single jersey. Say whether you need micromodal or a branded fibre.
- Weight: finished GSM with a tolerance, commonly ±5%.
- Shrinkage: a maximum after washing in length and width, agreed with the mill.
- Stretch and recovery: especially for waistbands, leg openings and bralettes.
- Pilling and colourfastness: minimum grades for pilling, washing and perspiration, tested to ISO or AATCC methods.
- Trims: elastic type and width, gusset fabric, thread and label placement.
For underwear and swim, measurements and grading need extra care because small differences show. Our lingerie and swim tech packs are built for exactly that.
How Fabrickly can help. We create tech packs and manufacture lingerie and underwear from 50 pieces per style, and bulk never starts without a signed-off pre-production sample. If sustainability is part of your brief, see our sustainable clothing manufacturing route. Send your tech pack or a sketch through our quote request page for an itemised quote within one business day.
Frequently asked
Q: Is modal a natural or synthetic fabric?
Neither, strictly. Modal is a regenerated cellulose fibre: the cellulose comes from wood pulp, usually beech, but it is chemically processed into a fibre, so it is described as semi-synthetic or man-made cellulosic.
Q: Is modal better than cotton?
It depends on the product. Modal is softer, drapes more and tends to keep its colour well, which suits underwear and loungewear. Cotton has more structure, is usually more economical and is easier to find in organic versions.
Q: What is the difference between modal and viscose?
Both are made from wood pulp with similar chemistry, but modal is spun under modified conditions that make it stronger when wet. Modal fabrics usually shrink less and hold their shape better than viscose.
Q: Does modal shrink?
Modal shrinks less than viscose and often less than untreated cotton, but it can still shrink with hot washes or tumble drying. Wash cool and set a maximum shrinkage in your tech pack.
Q: What is micromodal?
Micromodal is modal made from much finer fibres. It produces a lighter, silkier fabric that is popular for premium underwear, bralettes and sleepwear.
Q: Is TENCEL the same as modal?
Not exactly. TENCEL is a Lenzing brand that covers both modal and lyocell fibres. TENCEL Modal is Lenzing’s branded modal, while generic modal can come from other producers.
— Hasebul, Fabrickly