Jersey fabric is a plain weft-knitted fabric with smooth V-shaped columns on the face and small loops on the back. It’s soft, stretches across the width and drapes well, which is why it’s the fabric behind almost every t-shirt. Cotton jersey is the classic, but jersey can be knitted from almost any fibre.
So, what is jersey fabric in practice, and which version should you choose? Below: how it’s made, how it compares with interlock, rib, piqué and French terry, the right GSM for t-shirts, and what to put in your spec.
What is jersey fabric and how is it made?
Jersey is knitted, not woven. Instead of two sets of yarn crossing at right angles, one yarn is looped through the row before it, usually on a circular knitting machine that produces a tube of fabric.
The name comes from Jersey in the Channel Islands, long known for knitted wool. Today “jersey” usually means single jersey, knitted on one set of needles, and most of it is cotton or a cotton blend.
That jersey knit structure gives it four traits you’ll deal with in production:
- Stretch: good stretch across the width, much less along the length. Elastane improves recovery.
- Curl: cut edges roll, so single jersey takes more care to spread and cut.
- Drape: soft and fluid; lighter weights cling more.
- Spirality: yarn twist can make single jersey twist after washing, pulling side seams towards the front. Good fabric finishing and careful cutting keep it in check.
Single jersey vs interlock, rib, piqué and French terry
“Jersey knit” is used loosely for any t-shirt-type fabric. Here’s how the main knits compare. GSM ranges are typical, not limits.
| Fabric | Structure | Typical GSM | Stretch | Curl | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | Plain weft knit on one needle bed; V-shaped columns on the face, loops on the back | 120–240 | Good across the width, low lengthwise | High at cut edges | T-shirts, tanks, light dresses |
| Interlock | Double knit: two 1×1 ribs interlocked, smooth and identical on both sides | 180–280 | Moderate, more stable than single jersey | Very low | Premium tees, polos, babywear, leggings |
| Rib (1×1, 2×2) | Alternating columns of face and reverse stitches on two needle beds | 180–300 | High across the width, strong recovery | Low | Neckbands, cuffs, fitted tanks, bodysuits |
| Slub jersey | Single jersey knitted from slub yarn with thick and thin sections | 130–200 | As single jersey | High | Vintage-look tees, relaxed tops |
| Piqué | Knit with tuck stitches that form a textured, honeycomb-like face | 180–240 | Low to moderate | Low to moderate | Polo shirts, sporty tops |
| French terry | Jersey face with unbrushed loops on the back | 240–350 | Moderate | Low to moderate | Sweatshirts, hoodies, joggers, shorts |
Single jersey vs interlock: which is better for t-shirts?
Single jersey is lighter, more breathable and usually more economical. It’s the standard for everything from fashion tees to heavyweight streetwear blanks.
Interlock looks the same on both sides, doesn’t curl and feels smoother and more substantial at a similar weight. It’s warmer and a little less fluid, so it suits premium basics, polos and babywear rather than a classic tee.
Rib is rarely the main body fabric on a tee, but it’s what you’ll use for the neckband. Match its colour and fibre to the body fabric or it will show.
Jersey fabric weights: GSM guide for t-shirts
Weight is quoted in GSM (grams per square metre). US suppliers often quote ounces per square yard; multiply GSM by about 0.0295 to convert.
- 140–160 gsm (about 4.1–4.7 oz): lightweight. Fashion and summer tees, layering pieces, event tees. Drapes well but can look slightly sheer in white.
- 180–220 gsm (about 5.3–6.5 oz): midweight. The everyday retail tee. Holds its shape and takes screen prints well.
- 240 gsm and up (about 7.1 oz and up): heavyweight. Boxy streetwear tees with structure; many premium heavyweight tees sit around 240–300 gsm.
GSM isn’t the whole story. Finer yarns (30s, 40s) make lighter, smoother jersey; coarser yarns like 20s or 16s build heavier fabric. Combed, ring-spun cotton feels softer and pills less than carded or open-end yarn at the same weight.
If you’re building a tee range, our t-shirt manufacturing service produces from 50 pieces per style, so you can test a lightweight and a heavyweight version without committing to big volumes.
Cotton jersey and other fibre options
- Cotton: breathable, soft and easy to print and dye. Untreated cotton jersey can shrink noticeably, so ask for compacted or pre-shrunk fabric.
- Organic cotton: performs like conventional cotton. GOTS-certified organic cotton is available on request through our sustainable clothing manufacturing route.
- Cotton-elastane: typically around 5% elastane, for better stretch and recovery in fitted tees, bodysuits and leggings. Patterns need adjusting for the extra stretch.
- Modal: a cellulose fibre with a silky hand and fluid drape that holds colour well. Often blended with cotton for loungewear and premium basics.
- Polyester blends: CVC (mostly cotton with some polyester), 50/50 and tri-blends shrink less and dry faster; tri-blends add a soft, vintage feel. Dyed polyester can bleed into prints, so tell your printer the composition.
What jersey fabric is used for
Beyond t-shirts and tanks, jersey is used for long-sleeve tops, dresses, loungewear, underwear, babywear and sleepwear. Team sports shirts are called jerseys because they were traditionally knitted from it; today most are polyester jersey.
Its looped cousin, French terry, is the go-to for lighter sweatshirts and hoodies. Our hoodie manufacturing range starts at 240gsm French terry and runs up to 480gsm loopback fleece.
Sewing jersey: what changes in production
Because jersey stretches, it needs stitches that stretch with it. Expect overlocked seams, coverstitch hems and a neckband attached with an overlock and finished with a twin-needle or coverstitch topstitch. A rigid lockstitch seam on jersey will pop the first time it’s pulled.
Jersey also comes in two forms. Tubular fabric can make a tee with no side seams, which is quick but more prone to twisting. Open-width fabric is cut into separate front and back panels joined by side seams, which gives better fit, more consistent sizing and less twist, so most retail brands choose it.
What to specify for jersey in your tech pack
“Cotton jersey” on its own leaves too much open. Put these in the fabric section of your tech pack:
- Composition and construction: for example, 100% combed ring-spun cotton single jersey.
- Weight: finished GSM with a tolerance, commonly ±5%.
- Shrinkage: a maximum after washing in length and width, often around 3–5% for cotton jersey.
- Spirality: a maximum side-seam twist after washing.
- Rib and trims: neckband composition, colour match and width.
- Dye and finish: piece-dyed fabric, or a garment dye or enzyme wash after sewing. Garment-dyed tees shrink during dyeing, so the pattern needs allowance.
New to spec sheets? Start with what a tech pack is and what goes in it.
How Fabrickly can help. We source jersey to your spec, with standard fabrics certified to OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and GOTS organic cotton on request, and finish tees with garment dye, pigment dye or enzyme washes. Send your tech pack or a sketch through our quote request page for an itemised quote within one business day.
Frequently asked
Q: What is jersey fabric made of?
Jersey can be knitted from almost any fibre. Cotton and cotton blends are the most common, but modal, viscose, polyester, wool and elastane blends are all made as jersey.
Q: What is the difference between single jersey and interlock?
Single jersey is knitted on one set of needles, so it is lighter, has a different face and back, and curls at the edges. Interlock is a double knit that looks the same on both sides, lies flat and feels smoother.
Q: Is jersey fabric stretchy?
Yes. Jersey stretches well across the width and less along the length. For more stretch and better recovery, choose cotton-elastane jersey or rib.
Q: What GSM is best for a t-shirt?
Around 140–160 gsm suits lightweight fashion tees, 180–220 gsm is the everyday retail weight, and 240 gsm and above gives a heavyweight streetwear feel.
Q: Does cotton jersey shrink?
It can, especially if the fabric has not been compacted or pre-shrunk. Ask for treated fabric and set a maximum shrinkage in your tech pack.
Q: Is jersey a knit or a woven fabric?
Jersey is a knit. It is made by interlocking loops of yarn rather than weaving yarns at right angles, which gives it natural stretch.
— Hasebul, Fabrickly