Fleece, sherpa and French terry are all knitted fabrics, but they do different jobs. French terry has flat, unbrushed loops on the back and is the lightest and most breathable; fleece is a loopback knit brushed on the inside for warmth; sherpa is a thick, curly pile that imitates sheepskin and is mostly used as a lining.
For most hoodies the real choice is French terry vs fleece. Fleece vs sherpa only comes up when you want something warmer and more textured, like a sherpa-lined hood or a full sherpa zip-up. Here is how each behaves in production, and what to write in your spec.
What is French terry?
French terry is a knit fabric with a smooth face and small loops on the reverse. The loops are left as they are, which is why the inside looks like a field of tiny piled-up stitches rather than fluff.
It is usually cotton or a cotton-rich blend, sometimes with a little elastane for stretch. For hoodies and sweatpants it typically runs from about 240 to 350gsm.
- Feels: soft but dry, cool against the skin.
- Breathes: well, because air moves freely through the open loops.
- Wears: cleanly. Without a brushed nap there is less to pill or shed.
Heavyweight streetwear fabrics sold as “loopback fleece” at 400gsm and above are often the same unbrushed loopback construction, just much heavier and denser. Always ask a mill whether the back is brushed or unbrushed.
What is fleece? (And why hoodie fleece is not polar fleece)
In hoodie manufacturing, “fleece” normally means brushed-back fleece. It starts as a loopback knit, then the loops on the back are brushed to break and raise the fibres into a soft nap. That nap traps warm air, so brushed fleece feels warmer than French terry at the same weight.
Typical compositions are 100% cotton, 80/20 or 60/40 cotton/polyester, and organic cotton. Weights for hoodies and crewnecks usually sit between 280 and 450gsm.
Polar fleece is a different fabric: usually 100% polyester, brushed on both sides, used for outdoor mid-layers. It is light, warm and quick-drying, but it does not have the cotton handfeel most fashion brands want, and it is less print-friendly than cotton fleece.
What is sherpa fabric?
Sherpa is a pile fabric made to look and feel like sheepskin. One side has a dense, curly or bumpy pile; the other is a flat knit base. It is sometimes called faux shearling or berber fleece.
Most sherpa is 100% polyester, though cotton and wool-blend versions exist at higher price points. Weight varies widely with pile height, so it is better judged by handfeel and loft than by GSM alone.
On hoodies, sherpa is most often used as:
- a hood lining or full body lining inside a fleece or French terry shell;
- a contrast collar, yoke or pocket;
- the outer fabric of a sherpa zip-up or overshirt-style jacket.
Fleece vs sherpa: which is warmer?
Sherpa is usually warmer. The deep pile holds much more still air than a brushed fleece nap, which is why it works so well as a lining. The trade-off is breathability: polyester sherpa traps heat and moisture, so a fully sherpa-lined hoodie can feel stuffy indoors.
Brushed fleece is the better all-rounder. It is warm enough for most of the year, breathes better than sherpa and, if it is cotton-rich, feels more natural on the skin. In the fleece vs sherpa decision for a core hoodie, fleece usually wins; sherpa is the seasonal, statement option.
Sherpa also adds bulk. A sherpa-lined hood or body changes the fit, so the pattern often needs extra ease, and the lining adds fabric and sewing time to every piece.
French terry vs fleece for hoodies
This is the decision most brands actually face. Both fabrics have the same smooth face, so they look similar from the outside. The difference is inside, and in how the garment wears.
- Choose French terry for spring and summer drops, warmer markets, layering pieces, joggers and shorts, and a clean, slightly vintage look.
- Choose brushed fleece for autumn and winter, core everyday hoodies, and when customers expect that soft, cosy inside.
- Choose heavyweight loopback when you want structure and a boxy streetwear silhouette without a fluffy interior.
Our hoodie fabrics run from 240gsm French terry up to 480gsm loopback fleece, and most premium streetwear hoodies we make sit between 380 and 450gsm. You can see the full range on our hoodie manufacturer page.
Fleece vs sherpa vs French terry at a glance
| French terry | Brushed fleece | Sherpa | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Warmth | Low to medium | Medium to high | High |
| Typical weight | About 240 to 350gsm | About 280 to 450gsm | Varies widely with pile height; judge by loft |
| Breathability | High | Medium | Low (usually polyester) |
| Shrinkage | Moderate if cotton and not pre-shrunk | Moderate if cotton-rich and not pre-shrunk; blends move less | Low, but polyester pile can flatten or mat with high heat |
| Print-friendliness | Excellent on the smooth face | Very good on the smooth face | Poor on the pile; use patches or decorate a smooth shell |
| Typical use | Spring/summer hoodies, joggers, shorts, layering | Year-round hoodies, crewnecks, sweatpants | Hood and body linings, collars, sherpa jackets |
| Cost tier | Low | Medium | Medium to high (as a lining it adds a layer) |
Choosing by season, price point and decoration
Start with how and where the hoodie will be worn, then check the fabric against your decoration plan.
- Screen print and puff print: both French terry and brushed fleece print well because the face is smooth. Heavier, denser fabrics give a cleaner print surface.
- Embroidery: works on both. On lighter French terry, a backing helps stop puckering around dense logos.
- Garment dye and washes: cotton French terry and cotton fleece take garment dye, pigment dye and enzyme washes well. Garment-dyed pieces shrink during dyeing, so patterns must be sized up to allow for it.
- Sherpa: skip printing on the pile. Put the logo on the shell, or use a woven patch.
On price point, French terry is usually the most economical of the three. Brushing adds a finishing step to fleece, heavier weights simply use more fabric per garment, and a sherpa lining adds a second fabric and extra sewing to every piece. If you need a sharp retail price, a mid-weight French terry or fleece gives you more room than a lined style.
If sustainability is part of your story, GOTS organic cotton is available in both French terry and fleece constructions. Our sustainable clothing page covers certifications.
What to write in your tech pack
“Grey fleece hoodie” is not a spec. Factories quote and sample against what you write, so be precise:
- Construction: French terry, brushed-back fleece, unbrushed loopback or sherpa.
- Composition: for example 100% cotton or 80/20 cotton/polyester.
- Weight: GSM, and whether that is before or after washing.
- Shrinkage: pre-shrunk fabric and a maximum allowance in length and width, checked on the pre-production sample.
- Rib: 1×1 or 2×2, with or without elastane, and colour-matched to the body.
- Lining: if sherpa, exactly which panels are lined.
Not sure how to write it? Our tech pack services turn a sketch or reference into a factory-ready spec.
How Fabrickly can help
We manufacture hoodies in French terry, brushed fleece and heavyweight loopback from 50 pieces per style, with in-line QC and an AQL 2.5 final inspection on every order. If you are building a small streetwear range, our low MOQ streetwear manufacturing is a good place to start. Send your tech pack or a sketch for an itemised quote within one business day via our quote request form.
Frequently asked
Q: Is sherpa warmer than fleece?
Usually, yes. Sherpa’s deep pile traps more still air than a brushed fleece nap, so it insulates better, but it breathes less and adds bulk.
Q: Is French terry the same as fleece?
They start from the same loopback knit. French terry leaves the loops on the back unbrushed, while fleece is brushed to raise a soft, warmer nap.
Q: Is French terry good for winter?
Lightweight French terry is better suited to spring, summer and layering. For winter, brushed fleece or a heavyweight loopback above about 400gsm is a warmer choice.
Q: What is sherpa fabric made of?
Most sherpa is 100% polyester knitted with a curly pile on one side to imitate sheepskin. Cotton and wool-blend versions exist but are less common and cost more.
Q: Does French terry shrink?
Cotton French terry can shrink if the fabric has not been pre-shrunk. Specify pre-shrunk fabric and a maximum shrinkage in your tech pack, then wash-test the pre-production sample.
Q: What GSM French terry is best for a hoodie?
About 280 to 350gsm suits a light, everyday French terry hoodie. Go below that for summer layering pieces, or up to heavyweight loopback for a more structured streetwear fit.
— Hasebul, Fabrickly